Sunshine dancing on the surface of crystal clear turquoise waters. Colourful linens flapping in the warm breeze. The scent of clean laundry, espresso, ripe aromatic lemons, and rich sweet wine. Children laughing, boisterous conversations, bustling commotion, and the sound of waves lapping the shore.
Cinque Terre is hard to forget.
Sitting on the Ligurian coastline of northern Italy, Cinque Terre (literally meaning five lands) is comprised of 5 picturesque little towns; Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. The towns and surrounding hillsides have been recognized as a UNESCO world heritage site and the area’s beauty is undeniable.
Travel throughout the area is taken through three main avenues; by train, on foot, or by boat. Due to landslides that took place prior to my time of visit (resulting in closed trails) I had to pass up the amazing hiking trails and settle for the train. I decided to spend more of my time exploring each of the individual towns and though I missed out on the trails through olive groves and vineyards, I still managed to get a taste of them. The towns, some being built upon hillsides, leave you climbing winding and seemingly neverending staircases. At every turn, you find a new discovery. Charming specialty shops, delicious focaccia eateries, gelaterias, romantic sea view bistros, cafes, staggeringly high footpaths, ancient churches, and quaint elegant homes are everywhere.
The most striking and awe-inspiring thing about these towns is the surrounding natural beauty that seemingly creeps into every crevice. You can catch yourself caught in a foray of cascading wildflowers, amongst hillsides teemingly abundant with wildlife, and catching views of the glimmering endless sea below. It leaves you absolutely breathless, in more ways than one.
Every town has its own flair and style, and there is a town to suit everyone. Choosing a home base that matches your personality and interests, is the key to enjoying your time in Cinque Terre to the fullest. Here’s a full rundown of each of the towns to help you choose the best town for you and your particular interests.
Monterosso al Mare
Monterosso al Mare is the largest town within Cinque Terre, the most accessible by car, and the only one with a decent stretch of beach. Home to a beautiful boardwalk filled with specialty shops and eateries, it is also known for its amazing back-alley restaurants and hidden Old Town which provides tourists an opportunity to experience the less commercialized, more authentic spirit of the village. Choosing to stay within the new or old town is really up to you and your preferences. If you prefer the charm of quiet village life, choose the old town. If you seek a high energy touristy feel, choose the new town. Either way, they are extremely easy to travel between so no matter where you stay, you can experience both.
There are also plenty of historical sites to visit within the new and old towns such as the Church of St. John the Baptiste, the Church of San Francesco (Friars Monastery), the Monterosso Giant (a giant cliffside statue of Neptune), and Santuario di Nostra Signora di Soviore (a monastery), amongst many others.
Monterosso al Mare is ideal for those who like bustling crowds, people-watching, plenty of entertainment, and enjoy a classic resort feel. It is a convenient location for those traveling with a family or large group of friends as it provides plenty of accommodation options and activities to suit everyone. Many travelers choose Monterosso al Mare as a home base because of its location. Being the northernmost village of the Cinque Terre, it gives you a direct route to visit the other villages by easily traveling south down the coastline.
Vernazza
Vernazza was the home base I chose during my time in Cinque Terre and was, by far, my favourite of the five towns. Titled the crown jewel of the Cinque Terre, it is more secluded and isolated than Monterosso al Mare. Having no car traffic (apart from the trucks carrying goods for the early morning Tuesday market) it is at its core a small, remote Italian fishing village. With the influx of tourism over recent years, the quiet town can become quite crowded and overrun in the daytime hours. However, with the onset of the evening, it becomes still again. Steeped in romance, beauty, and utter calm, you get a real glimpse into its true essence.
The town sits nestled in a ravine amongst blanketed hills of cacti, olive trees, and grapevines. Accending and descending the narrow cascading staircases (caruggi) upon which the town is built takes you through mazes of elegant homes and apartments. Everything links to the short main street which is decorated with small bakeries, cafes, specialty shops, eateries, gelaterias, and bars to enjoy. The small Piazza Marconi overlooks the sea and is the perfect location to enjoy an early morning breakfast or relax as you watch the waves lap the shore.
For those who love the sea, there are two swimming locations in Vernazza. The first is a very small beach that lies just beyond the piazza and out onto the small harbour, the other, a more rocky location off the south end of the town. Sites to visit within the town are few but definitely noteworthy, they include, Doria Castle, Santa Margherita D’Antiochia (Church), Sanctuary of Madonna di Reggio (sacred religious site), and Chapel of Santa Marta.
If you enjoy a more laid-back and relaxed atmosphere that allows you to have a taste of what living like a true local is like, I highly recommend Vernazza. It is heartbreakingly beautiful, pedestrian-friendly, and serenely calm during the evening, night, and early morning hours. It would be the ideal location for a romantic couple’s getaway or the perfect home-base for a small family.
Corniglia
If I wasn’t the sea-loving creature I am, Corniglia would have been my pick of the best that Cinque Terre has to offer. It lies, majestically perched 100-metres above the sea, on a hilltop terrace. Locked away on high, it is the least accessible of the five towns. You can access Corniglia from any of the other towns by train but once arriving, you immediately face the first of Cornelia’s sites, The Lardarina. The Lardarina is a winding steep staircase of 33 flights of stairs with 380 steps. Although it’s difficult, many travelers decide to take the Lardarina on, as shuttle buses (when available) often come with hour-long wait times. Either way, it’s worth it.
So why do I love Corniglia? Because of its inaccessibility. Corniglia remains remote and untouched commercially in comparison to the rest of the Cinque Terre. The town’s population is a mere 150, yet, the town is teeming with life. It’s a little less flashy but is full of subtle charm and stunning beauty. It’s laid back and gives you that local feel that is so utterly hard to find in travel destinations these days.
The town provides killer views of the sea, plenty of restaurants, bars, cafes, and even a couple of grocery stores to buy daily fresh produce and needed essentials for your stay. Beautiful outdoor gardens, colourful buildings, and narrow winding cobblestone streets are everywhere. Amongst sites to see are The Church of St. Peter, Oratorio dei Disciplinati di Santa Caterina (a small chapel), and Saint Mary’s Terrace (the location giving you a panoramic view of all of the other towns). Beaches are available but due to Corniglia’s towering location, they take a long difficult downhill trek to get to.
To me, Corniglia is the heart of the Cinque Terre. Centered within the villages it stands, as if holding all, together. It is perfect for those searching for a taste of the true Cinque Terre, one beyond today’s commercial tourism. A perfect location for those who want to escape the busy mid-day crowds and enjoy a peaceful, truly Italian getaway.
Manarola
The image of Manarola has become the frontman of the Cinque Terre. It’s the image you see on all the postcards, Pinterest pins, and travel blogs. Cluttered with picturesque multicoloured homes in vibrant reds, yellows, and oranges that contrast with subdued pastel pinks, corals, and light blues, the buildings seem to fit together like a puzzle. Where one ends the other begins.
Although the town is small and the main street is somewhat narrow, it is cluttered with protruding outdoor dining venues that provide you the Cinque Terre basics; good food, good coffee, and good company. There are also a lot of great terraced restaurants to check out.
If you like to hike, scenic pathways abound and shine in Manarola. They circle down towards the rocks and swimming areas and up around the winding cliffsides. Due to this, Manarola is the photographer’s heaven. Pathways and clearances give you the perfect vantage point to shoot the village and explore the town from up high or down low. Amongst the most popular pathways in Manarola is the Via dell’Amore or “The way of Love”. This pedestrian path was named due to it being the perfect location for young lovers living within Manarola and Riomaggiore to escape to and meet in privacy. We were only able to partially travel the path at the time of our visit as a rockslide caused substantial damage to the path in 2012. But if you happen to visit 2023, make sure to check it out. With sprawling views of the sea, it is an unforgettable experience.
Other sites within the village include Piazza Papa Innocenzo IV, Oratorio dei Disciplinati (small chapel), the beautiful 13th-century Church of San Lorenzo, and finally the old waterwheel.
Overall, Manarola is a great home-base for those who enjoy a small-town feel but still want access to amazing views and tons of great places to eat, drink and eat some more! It is the most pedestrian-friendly town and has access to the easiest hiking trails within the Cinque-Terre.
Riomaggiore
Riomaggiore is the second-largest village of the Cinque Terre and much like Manarola, it is quite picturesque aesthetically. The main street, incredibly long compared to the other villages’, winds through staggering multicoloured shops and towering apartments, down to the crashing sea. The most southern of the five villages, Riomaggiore is often used as a starting point and home base to traveling the Cinque Terre as it gives an easy route to each village. However, it lies built into the side of a cliff (making it extremely hard to trek especially if carrying luggage).
The town is similar to the others in that it provides access to amazing dining experiences and historical sites (The Castle, The Sanctuary of Lady Montenero, The Church of San Giovanni Battista, The Oratory of San Rocco) but something that sets it apart is the number of shopping, dining, and nightlife opportunities that are available to you. Specialty shops cater to your specific wants, interests, and needs. The chances of finding more traditional trattorias abound and it is home to more bars than any of the other villages. For this reason, the nightlife is booming in Riomaggiore. Where other towns become quiet and docile at night, Riomaggiore comes to life.
Apart from this, Riomaggiore still has all the charms of any Italian fishing village that sits on the beautiful Mediterranean coastline. Beautiful beaches such as The Batteria, and Canneto Beach (with its own natural waterfall) lie just a short distance away, gateways to wonderful cliffside hiking trails are easily accessible and the place is abundant in beauty.
Riomaggiore would be the perfect fit for those who enjoy a larger town feel that allows you to explore a multitude of dining, entertainment, and shopping experiences without all the glitz and glam of a resort. Keep in mind, it is the hardest of the five towns to trek so it may not be a good choice for those who have trouble walking uphill or tire easily.
Conclusion
Cinque Terre will always hold a very special place in my heart. The locals embrace you as if you belong. The atmosphere forces you through its beauty and elegant simplicity to slow down, enjoy every moment, be present and relish in the simple act of being. The cultural traditions that continue forward with the efforts of the families who live there, teach you a great lesson in the value of authenticity and conservation. The area offers so much, making it an unforgettable travel destination. It is perfect for anyone seeking a little adventure, beauty beyond compare, and a glimpse into a whole new world and way of living.